Housebreaking (appears on the IACP website: http://www.dogpro.org/index.php?pageID=57)

By Mary Harwelik

The following method can be used on puppies or adult dogs. It is important to follow the instructions closely, as not doing so will cause setbacks and possible future problems. Adherence to the instructions will generally produce a housebroken dog in about a month. Please be aware that while a young dog may be capable of understanding the concept of housebreaking, it may not be able to adhere to the protocol due to the fact that the bladder is not mature and is incapable of holding urine for long periods of time. The fact that puppies need to eliminate more often than older dogs should be taken into account.

Tools:

The only tools necessary for housebreaking are:

The crate - Far from being cruel, a properly sized and used crate is a wonderful asset to the dog owner. Dogs are naturally denning creatures, they seek out cozy areas where they can feel safe during sleep and escape to when life gets too overwhelming. Crates = dens in the minds of those dogs properly introduced to them. Many dogs who have been initially housebroken using crates become so attached to them that their owners will leave the crates available at all times for the dog to come and go as he pleases. The crate is also a great way to keep your canine out of trouble when you are not around to supervise him. Crates are not torturous or mean - they are handy tools that the savvy owner would do well to possess.

Why Use a Crate for Housebreaking?---Crates are used for housebreaking because they provide a secure place for the dog while the owner cannot keep an eye on him. Dogs generally will not soil their beds, so being in a crate during part of the housebreaking process helps a dog learn to "hold it". The crate will also prevent the dog from getting into trouble when he is not supervised.

Selecting the crate - Generally speaking, a crate should allow an adult to dog stand, sit, lie down and turn around without having to touch the sides of the crate. For a puppy, a crate that will fit him as an adult is generally acceptable, except in the larger breeds where a puppy would be virtually swimming in an adult-sized crate. A crate that is too large will not be beneficial to the housebreaking procedure. Use your best judgement and follow the basic sizing recommendation mentioned above. A wire fold-up crate is generally the most convenient, plus allows for better ventilation than the popular plastic crates and will prevent a dog from chewing his way out. Be sure that the wire fold-up crate is fully locked into place, as a poorly assembled crate can be a danger. Snaps or other securing devices along the outer edges of the crate to prevent the dog from pushing his way out are a good idea.

Crate Training---Some dogs accept the crate quite willingly, while others may whine or put up a bit of a fight at first. It is important that the crate only have positive associations for the dog, so regardless, proper introduction to the crate is a must. To begin, place the crate in an area the dog usually occupies, with the door open so the dog is free to investigate. After the dog appears to have adjusted to the crate's presence, encourage him to enter it. Throw a favorite toy into it, treats, or other goodies. Feed the dog in the crate for a few days. Put his bed and blanket inside it and encourage him to spend time in it. After he seems fairly comfortable going in and out of the crate, begin closing the crate door for short periods of time. IMPORTANT: do not let the dog out if he is crying, scratching to get out, or barking. Doing so will encourage him to act up in the crate in the future. Instead, ignore his whines, leave the room, and pretend you do not hear him. When the dog is quiet, quickly go to let him out but do not make a big fuss. You want the crate to be a place where good things happen, while letting the dog come to learn that being let out of the crate is not anything fantastic.

The time the dog is left in the crate will vary greatly depending upon the dog, the owner, and the circumstances. Dogs who are in the process of being housebroken will need to spend more time in the crate than a dog that is already trained to eliminate outdoors. Older dogs will be able to spend longer periods in a crate than puppies that need to eliminate more often. A dog left in a crate longer than he is physically capable of holding it will be forced to soil the bed, therefore causing a setback and encouraging the dog to be dirty. The likelihood of the dog eliminating in the crate again goes up once it has happened, and the efficacy of the crate is diminished.

Patience---There is nothing like a dog soiling your house that is likely to try your patience. However, realize that an "accident" in the house is not your dog's fault - it is yours. Maybe you did not read the signs properly when he was indicating that he had to go out, maybe the dog does not yet fully understand what housebreaking is, perhaps you forced him to wait too long and he was no longer able to hold it. Regardless, punishment has no place in housebreaking.

Why punishment and housebreaking don't mix: dogs learn by association. What happens when they are doing something dictates whether they will ever perform that behavior again. If something bad happens, the likelihood of that behavior repeating is lessened; if something good happens, the behavior will most likely be repeated. When you punish a dog for eliminating in the house, the dog doesn't take into account the fact that he's soiling your white carpet is why you are angry - all he comes to learn is that eliminating in your presence is bad. Housebreaking will be hindered because when you take him outside to do his business, he will be afraid to perform in front of you. You'll bring him inside, he'll go off to a corner to eliminate, you'll catch him, punish him, and the cycle will repeat. Also, punishing after-the-fact is wrong and serves absolutely no purpose. Dogs "live in the moment" and cannot understand that you are yelling at them because of an accident they had hours ago. Dogs are naturally clean animals. They are also habitual. Once you set up proper housebreaking protocol and they come to understand what is expected of them, they will gladly oblige.

Time---During the housebreaking stage, plan on spending a lot of time with your dog. Constant supervision is necessary unless the dog is crated. Puppies need to be taken out constantly, as often as every 90 minutes in very young dogs. You need to take your dog out on leash EVERY TIME he needs to eliminate. It's a lot to do, but the rewards will be very beneficial, and you will be glad you took the extra time to housebreak your dog correctly. You'll end up with a dog that is very reliable and a house that is always clean.

Housebreaking

Vigilance and diligence are the keys to housebreaking. You must keep an eye on your dog at all times to prevent him from having an accident in the house. Every time an accident occurs, the behavior is further cemented and the likelihood that it is repeated will increase. The dog should be leashed or made to stay with you at all times. When it is not feasible for you to watch him, put him in the crate. The crate should be used when you are not home, are occupied and cannot give your full attention to the dog, and at night. Remember to allow for a puppy's increased need to eliminate - do not force a young dog to hold it for long periods of time; that is unfair and will hinder the housebreaking process. It is up to you to do investigative work to find out what behavior precedes elimination: does the dog whine, pace, sniff excessively? Watch for signs. The number of times during the day that a dog will need to eliminate will vary. Age, breed, activity level, health, etc. all play a role. Puppies generally need to go outside after a nap, after excessive movement, eating, drinking, a few times during the night, etc. In a healthy adult dog, you should be able to eventually mold a schedule for him: in the morning, after each meal, once during the day (mid- to late-afternoon), early evening and right before bed. Your dog will eventually learn to "tell" you on his own when he needs to go out. You will have a good idea of his schedule and be able to predict the times of day he needs to go outside.

Begin by choosing an area in the yard where you will always take your dog to eliminate. Also choose one doorway you will use to exit and enter. The object is to set a pattern that the dog will easily be able to follow. He'll learn that when you take him to a specific area of the yard, he is to "go potty". He will learn that running to the door is a good way to let you know he needs to go out. Also, keeping to one "potty spot" will have the added benefit of conditioning the dog to eliminate in one area of the yard, which makes clean up much easier.

During the housebreaking, you will always take your dog outside on leash, you will always go out with him. This is to make sure the dog does eliminate and to ensure the dog goes in the correct area. You also will be able to praise him when he goes potty.

A typical potty session should go something like this: dog alerts you to the fact that he has to go out. You snap his leash on, asking him if he has to go out ("Wanna go out?" or something similar, in a happy, upbeat voice). Take him to the designated potty area, and wait. If the dog does not go in 5 to 10 minutes, bring him back indoors. Watch him like a hawk - if he eliminates in the house at this point, it will cause a major setback in training. The best bet would be to put the dog in the crate for a few minutes. Soon, try again, repeating the same routine. When the dog does go, praise lavishly. You may even have a treat handy to give him immediately after he is finished. This encourages the dog to eliminate sooner because he will learn that going potty in the designated area will elicit something positive. Repeat the process as necessary.

If your dog has an accident in the house, and you catch him in the act, startle him by clapping your hands or saying, "NO!". He will most likely stop, in which case you will immediately take him outside to the potty area. If he no longer has to eliminate, take him back inside and crate him until his next "potty break". If you find a mess after-the-fact, there is nothing much you can do. The dog will not understand yelling or punishment for something he did at an earlier time. You'll just have to chalk it up to a mistake on your part and proceed on as normal. When cleaning up accidents, be sure to use an order-neutralizing product such as Nature's Miracle. Odors or stains left behind will encourage the dog to eliminate in the area again.

Being able to reliably anticipate your dog's need to eliminate and then being able to immediately take him to the potty area are the two main abilities you'll need to successfully housebreak your dog. Preventing accidents is also a major concern, hence the need to keep an eye on your dog at all times, and crate him when you are unable to watch him. The inconvenience proper housebreaking causes will seem inconsequential when the final product is a truly housebroken dog.

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